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Wick 14: 17 – 23 March

WK140323a There are many things that have brought joy to my life—well, not that many, in fact if you take away chocolate-related stuff the list becomes vanishingly small—but one of them is the annual Bookseller/Diagram prize for the oddest book title.

This year’s prize was won by “How To Poo On A Date” (though personally I would have voted for “The Origin of Feces”, but that’s just me). One of the runners-up was a book called “Working Class Cats”.

WK140323bThe prize was started back in 1978, inspired by “Proceedings of the Second International Workshop on Nude Mice”. I first became aware of it in 1995 when it was won by “How To Reuse Old Graves”—if I remember rightly, one of the runners-up that year was “The Baby Jesus Touch and Feel Book”—and I knew I had found my spiritual home.

Of course, some of the titles are deliberately wacky because the books are meant to be humorous or parodies. I don’t really think these should be eligible (we’re talking “Oral Sadism and the Vegetarian Personality” or “Managing a Dental Practice the Genghis Khan Way”, winners in 1986 and 2010 respectively).

No, for maximum impact I think the title should be utterly straight. “Versailles: the View From Sweden” (1988) definitely counts, as does “How To Avoid Large Ships” (1992), and “American Bottom Archaeology” (1993).

0318aBut my absolute favourites? Ladies and gentlemen, I give you “The Big Book of Lesbian Horse Stories” (2003)—and “Goblinproofing One’s Chicken Coop” (2012). After which, like Hamlet, the rest really should be silence, I feel.

I am a paltry few inches of plain knitting and a cuff away from finishing the Wick gansey I started in November. I’m decreasing at a rate of 2 stitches every 6 rows, but even so the sleeves are a trifle baggy. (Hmm, I seem to have a knit a gansey for the “bingo wings” generation…)

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Orkney and Stroma from near John o’Groats

Speaking of ganseys, Margaret has come across an interesting painting in Orkney museum, “Rest After Toil”, painted in 1885 and showing a weary paterfamilias in his Orkney croft, wearing what appears to be a greenish gansey. Viewing it online you get a suggestion of a pattern, but nothing definite. (If I had a time machine I’d be tempted to go back in time and give the lazy painter a clip round the ear.)

So there we are. March so far has come in like a lion, and looks like it’s going out like a lion that’s been eating plenty of gazelles and working out down the gym. The spring equinox has officially sprung, so yesterday we had sunshine, snow, sleet, hail and rain, then more sun, all accompanied by a generous dose of wind.

Still, if it’s too wild to stray outside, you can always relax with a good book—such as “Crocheting Adventures With Hyperbolic Planes”. Or if that doesn’t appeal, there’s always the timeless classic, “Bombproof Your Horse”…

Wick 13: 10 – 16 March

WK140316a Let’s be clear: I don’t like Inverness and Inverness doesn’t like me.

I had to go there for a meeting last week, a 200-mile round trip along the Caithness and Sutherland coast and back, crossing a couple of firths on bridges that look as though they’re propped up on giant cotton buds and passing some of the finest supermarkets the Black Isle can offer.

The weather was stunning, clear blue skies and nary a breath of wind, spring flirting like a drunken girl giggling and flashing her skirts. (All deceit, of course. What a change a few days make! Today it’s grey and rainy and the wind’s so strong I feel seasick looking at the waves in my toilet bowl.)

WK140316bI don’t know Inverness very well; I’ve memorised the route to the record office, but that’s all. The rest of the town always surrounds me, uncharted and brooding and sinister, like the African jungle in Conrad’s Heart of Darkness. Well, as I was heading for home, disaster struck. All it took was one yellow sign bearing the fatal words “road closed – diversion” and the next thing I knew I was on an unfamiliar road heading in the wrong direction, towards Loch Ness.

Of course I did what any sensible person in my position would do: I swore quite a bit, before digging out the satellite navigation system and trying to attach it one-handed to the windscreen. A small piece of plastic snapped off the mount and disappeared into the air vent where it began to make a rattling noise like a penny in a washing machine.

WK140316cThen, the mount itself gave way and the sat-nav slowly peeled off the windscreen like an elderly octopus abandoning its lunch. It landed in my lap, where it seemed to develop a life of its own, nimbly evading all my attempts to rescue it, slippery as an electronic ferret and muttering to itself sarcastically as junction after junction slid by.

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Same subject, different day

By the time the sat-nav, the car and I were under what might loosely be called control I was ten miles out of town and Edinburgh was becoming a distinct possibility. The sat-nav did get me back on track, to be fair; though I still maintain it sent me via that hospital car park as punishment.

Ganseys: the other sleeve is now well and truly underway, hurrah, all the stitches picked up, the gusset decreased and the pattern band finished: now all that remains is a couple weeks’ plain knitting and plain sailing and that will be that.

Finally, I know that many of our readers particularly admire Margaret’s photographs. Well, she’s signed up to a site that encourages you to submit a picture a day. They’re pretty impressive so if you’d like to see more of her work, check out her images at Blipfoto and you can see more of what a great place Caithness really is, in all its changing moods, day by day.

But do me a favour: just don’t ask for any pictures of Inverness…

Wick 12: 3 – 9 March

WK140309a Some five miles south of Wick lies Sarclet Haven, another of Caithness’s deserted, haunted harbours—once a scene of thriving industry, now just a few ruined buildings, the tussocky grass littered with ankle-turning lumps of stone and rusty bits of cable.

WK140309cThe whole coast has numerous inlets like this, as though the shoreline of the east Highlands was an unfinished jigsaw that God left lying around while he went to answer the door, and never returned to—or maybe the box was missing a few pieces, I don’t know.

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The remains of the Stevenson breakwater

A hundred and fifty years ago the harbour would have been packed with boats in the summer months for the herring fishing. But it was pretty much wrecked by the same terrible storms that finally demolished the Wick breakwater in 1872, and the fishcurers packed up and moved their business the few miles north to town.

WK140309dOn Sunday we parked the car at the top of the cliffs and followed the path, a gentle ramp really, down to the cove. We had it all to ourselves, except for the disapproving Calvinist seabirds, who seemed quite indignant that we were there to disturb them and not in church; and we could hear larks and curlews fooling about in the fields somewhere above the cliffs. The haven is filled with ghosts. There’s a roofless stone building for storing salt and barrels, and a great rusting windlass which was used to winch the boats up onto the shingle, and other human remains.

WK140309bIt’s very beautiful, and lonely, and sad. Sometimes I think if I win the lottery I shall hire a bunch of actors to recreate the fishing boom each summer for tourists in a place like Sarclet—a bit like Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts but with added fish guts. Other times, I think I’ll just move somewhere warm, where the wind doesn’t strip trees like a nuclear blast and winter means maybe wearing long trousers, or any trousers come to that, and shall spend my days in a hammock on the beach sipping drinks I can’t pronounce and telling a spellbound audience tall tales about archives.

I’ve finished the first sleeve of the gansey: one down, one to go. The sleeve is just under 18 inches long, and the cuff is three inches; and I decreased down from 117 stitches to 96 for the cuff. So, now all I have to do is knuckle down and knit the other sleeve, which is good for the soul and reminds us that we are not put here on Earth for pleasure alone. If I can apply myself I might finish it by the end of the month.

Hopefully spring will have established itself properly by then. I was perhaps premature last week in my vernal celebrations – spring may’ve gone 2-0 up by half time, but winter has since equalised and it looks like we’re heading for penalties…

Wick 11: 24 February – 2 March

WK140302a1 On Thursday night the Northern Lights lit up the skies across eastern Britain, as if the Earth had been visited by a giant space cuttlefish that communicated in rippling bands of colour. The whole country was affected, from John O’Groats to Kent, and the internet has been lit up like a tacky 1970s disco with pictures ever since.

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John o’Groats from a different angle

We nearly missed it completely, and we didn’t get to see any colours. But we did see something uniquely strange instead: a black-and-white display of shimmering flecks against the clouds. It was pretty faint, like someone shining a torch behind a distant fog bank; at times it looked as though colonies of bats had learned to fly in formation, or as if God was drawing a magnet behind the clouds, arranging the magnetic particles like iron filings.

But next time we’ll hang the expense, pay extra and get the full colour version.

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The North Baths and South Head, Wick

By the way, I mentioned last week that my eyes had their annual service and MOT: apparently my dry eye condition hasn’t improved, and so now I have to spend 10 minutes every night with my head over a bowl full of boiling water, draped in a towel to catch the steam (think Lawrence of Arabia with a bad cold).

WK140302a2It’s a very peculiar sensation; the steam prickles my face as though it was being pawed by baby Ewoks, and it’s quite unnerving not being able to see anything under the towel. (I mean, it’s not like I seriously expect a bunch of clowns to burst in through the door behind me armed with custard pies or anything, but still…) On the other hand, it’s doing wonders for my complexion, and my face no longer looks like something a bush ranger would kill and skin and wear to keep his trousers up.

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Weathervane, John o’Groats Hotel

On the gansey, I’m freewheelin’ down the sleeve like I was Bob Dylan and it was 1963 all over again. One advantage to plain knitting is that I can do it and watch tv at the same time; if I tried doing that with a pattern I’d end up with something that looked like the Book of Job in Braille. It’s always great when you start to pick up speed down a sleeve—and, of course, when you start the other sleeve, it feels like you’ve stepped on a rake.

And it’s March! Practically spring! I no longer need a torch to find my pyjamas in the morning. The cats next door have started hanging around the drive, giving me hello-big-boy looks, hoping for a scrag on the warm gravel. I even heard a lark today—though to be fair, it was more of a despairing scream than a song as the wind caught it on top of its rise and catapulted it in the direction of the North Pole. Next thing you know I’ll be ready to cut away the bearskin I stitched myself into for winter and maybe even think about having a bath…

Wick 10: 17 – 23 February

WK140223a There are many things to dread about getting old, the worst of which is probably the delusion that the rest of the world is an idiot, and that everyone from President Obama to JK Rowling could have saved themselves no end of time if only they’d thought of calling you up and asking your advice first. (I mean, it’s just a phone call, Barack; how hard can it be?)

But now I’ve found two more. Top of the list is NHS Scotland’s lifesaving policy of do-it-yourself bowel cancer testing every two years—or, as I like to think of it, for those familiar with the great game of cricket, “slip fielding for poo”. (They’ve even done a delightful little video, with a catchy song called Test Your Poo. My favourite line? “Don’t be snobby, test your jobby”—see http://thepoosong.com.)

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The Lifeboat House

But glaucoma tests as part of a trip to the optician aren’t that far behind. It all starts when the optician puts the anaesthetic in your eyes; it doesn’t actually hurt, but really gums them up, like using peanut butter and honey eyedrops. (It doesn’t help either that when you wipe it afterwards the hanky comes away bright yellow, as though you were crying saffron.)

Then they test peripheral vision. This means putting your head up against a machine shaped like a pair of buttocks and staring at a pinprick of light (some people pay good money in private clubs for experiences not dissimilar to this); when other flashes of light appear at random intervals, you have to press a clicker.

WK140223bActually, they call it a test for peripheral vision, but its real purpose is obviously a Catatonic Migraine Inducer. And in this it is very successful: I was seeing random flashes of light all the way home, and on into my sleep. Next day the world was at right angles to reality. (You can get the same effect, and much cheaper, by asking a friend to slam your head in the fridge door for a quarter of an hour.)

And what of the gansey? Well, I’ve finished the collar and started on the sleeve and have just decreased the gusset out of existence, which is the knitting equivalent of paying off the mortgage. Now comes the steady haul down the sleeve, which will involve a decrease rate of two stitches every 6 rows.

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Turnstones by the river

Purists, look away now: for I have a confession to make. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the centre panel on the body is a chevron; but on the sleeve it’s a purl heapy thingy. I did this deliberately, as the heapy panel was just the right size for the shoulder strap (and whatever pattern is on the shoulder ends up in the centre of the sleeve). But it does mean that the body and the sleeves won’t mirror each other exactly. Do we care? A little, perhaps. But I won’t tell if you don’t.

And now it seems as if spring is almost upon us. The snowdrops are blooming, birds are roosting in the trees, and the temperature in Wick went off the scale at 10ºC on Sunday. If it wasn’t for the wind auditioning to understudy the typhoon in The Wizard of Oz it would be positively tropical. I should go outside and enjoy it—it’s just that I’m waiting for this phone call from Barack Obama…