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Caithness, I’ve come to realise, is all about water and light. Water, obviously, because the Ness of Caith sticks out into the sea like the prow of a ship, and following three of the four points of the compass means getting wet sooner rather than later; and light, because on a day like today the sun lights up the world, and land and sea shine like the gold on a medieval illuminated manuscript.
Spring has finally arrived. Temperatures doubled overnight—all right, from 6ºC to 11º, but even so—and the fog and cloud parted as though God had lifted the lid off the cooking pot of creation to see if it was done yet. So we drove down the coast a few miles to the old harbour of Latheronwheel.
Now, Caithness has abandoned harbours the way other places have Starbucks, but Latheronwheel is one of the best. The name is said to derive from the Gaelic, Latharn a’ Phuill (one translation of which is ‘muddy place of the pool’, a slogan curiously missing from the tourist boards, but possibly referring to a ford). The harbour is framed by cliffs and bisected by a river, tumbling down from the uplands. If you cross it by the ancient stone bridge you can climb up the bluff to the cliffs on the far side, where there’s the ruin of a miniature lighthouse and a clifftop walk; excitingly, the path takes you to within a couple of feet of a sheer drop with no railings—reader, we chickened out.
 Fairy Door
In gansey news I am about two-thirds of the way down the sleeve. Persistence is paying off, as the further I get the fewer the stitches I have to knit, and consequently the faster I go. In an ideal world I would finish this next weekend—but I shall be away for a few days mixing business with pleasure in, er, Warrington, so it will elide into the following week. But the end, to coin a phrase, is definitely nigh; or at least nighish.
Incidentally, if you follow the river up Latheronwheel strath you come to the fairy glen, where a glade of tree stumps has been carved into tiny make-believe houses. It straddles the fine line somewhere between charming and twee, but I liked it; even if I recalled the movie Beetlejuice and thought it would be improved with a fairy cemetery and a fairy house of ill repute.
 The Narrow Path
We tramped up the river and we climbed the cliff, and all the time the the sun glittered on the ocean and the waves rolled in (and out, too, of course). Water and light. Philip Larkin, as ever, said it best. In one poem, “Water”, he imagines founding a religion using water. The poem concludes in words of effortless grace: “And I should raise in the east / A glass of water / Where any-angled light / Would congregate endlessly”.
Somewhere along the coast of Caithness, as I type, any-angled light is congregating still…
 Latheronwheel harbour from the lighthouse
There’s a perfectly good reason why, whenever there’s cooking to be done, I am politely shunted over to the cooker with a spatula while someone better qualified than I brandishes the sharp steel knife and gets on with the complicated business of disassembling vegetables. It’s all a question of hand-eye coordination, something that’s as much a mystery to me as quadratic equations or parallel parking. I simply don’t have any.
I can’t judge distance. The only way I know when my car has reached the edge of a parking space is the slight bump it gives as it connects with the pavement, like a boat bumping up against the dock. And shaving in the mirror was always a voyage into the unknown—not just a question of distance but also the reverse-ness of the image—so that before I adopted the safety-first approach of designer stubble I had the best-shaved ears of any archivist I know. So it is with reason that the chopping block and I have lived separate lives: together, but apart.
 Springtime by the river
However, even Homer nods and on Saturday my handlers dropped their guard long enough to enable me to prepare a vegetable and lentil chilli. Onions, celery, carrots, all were sliced and diced to perfection until, like the sorcerer’s apprentice, I grew cocky; and it was while chopping a red pepper the exact point where my thumb ended and the pepper began became confused. That’s strange, I thought, looking at the spreading pool of red; I don’t recall peppers being this juicy. (Note to self, I added, already light-headed from loss of blood: cut down on the salt the recipe calls for.)
It’s noticeable, when you stop to think about it, just how jolly useful thumbs are. Of course, cat owners have realised for years that the species are only one genetic mutation away from being able to use a tin opener by themselves, at which point the status of humanity moves from enslaved to redundant. But everything—from doing up a button to operating a mobile phone, from tying shoelaces to holding a pen—is so much harder when your thumb is encased in bandages. I remember a friend once fell on gravel and cut her palms open, so that both hands had to be thickly swaddled until they healed; she said the sheer indignity of utter helplessness (try manipulating toilet paper with your teeth) prompted her to resolve that if she ever found herself falling again, she’d try to land head first.
 Local denizen
Another thing that’s tricky to do while beswaddled of course is knitting. The cuts lie just where I grip the needle between thumb and forefinger of my left hand; I find I’m gripping the needle tighter by way of compensation, which has the unfortunate effect of squeezing blood out of the cuts like toothpaste out the tube. (Hmm. If worst comes to worst I’ll pretend the gansey was knitted using herring girl pink yarn.) Even so, I am almost at the end of the pattern band at the top of the sleeve, the gusset is finished and at some point this week it’ll be plain knitting all the way.
The chilli, by the way, came out excellently. What’s that? No, I think I’ll pass on the tomato ketchup this time, thanks all the same…
Just when I thought I’d faced most of the terrors of middle age—absence of hair where it’s useful, copious amounts where it’s not, more pills to take each day than you’ll find in a packet of M&Ms, the NHS Scotland “poo test” for bowel cancer screening—I find a new nighttime dread has arisen: yawning so hard as to cause muscle strain.
Now, sometimes I yawn so capaciously I give myself jaw ache, so that for a time I walk around with the mirthless grin of a TV evangelist, or a method actor preparing to play the Joker in a Batman movie, and it’s not particularly unusual. But this is different: I yawn in my sleep. (And how is that even possible? Unless my dreams are so boring even my subconscious can’t be bothered to stay awake to watch them.) I wake up mid-yawn, with my body arched as if I was being electrocuted and severe cramps down the back of both calves.
 Waves in the outer harbour
The cramps are painful enough to make walking difficult for a day or so afterwards. It’s one of my key tests for getting old—parts of your body that used to be there for you suddenly look shifty and stop returning your calls; and the ground, which always seemed so comfortably far away, suddenly looks a lot closer and harder. (Oh, my other test? You get a chocolate Easter egg and can’t be bothered to open it right away. You’ve changed, man…)
 Snow on the hills behind Cromarty Firth
Somewhat to my surprise I’ve finished the first sleeve of the gansey, all the way down to the cuff, partly by knitting for most of Good Friday while listening to Bach’s sublime St Matthew Passion. (I’m back at work again; it could, all things considered, be worse.) The finished sleeve looks a little uneven because I’m using yarn frogged from an earlier, unsuccessful gansey; but washing and blocking should sort that out. For the record, I’ve used about 1,250g of yarn so far.
 Daffodils and St Fergus’
In parish news, it’s grovelling apology time. Some weeks back Jenny sent me pictures of a very impressive gansey she’s knitted in Frangipani pistachio. The patterns are a combination of Gladys Thompson’s Filey X with others from Mary Wright’s book on Cornish ganseys, and it just goes to show how effective patterns from different places can be when combined. I’m sure this is what the old knitters used to do all the time, as the fishermen mingled on the quays and the women read, marked and inwardly digested. Anyway, sincere apologies for the delay and many congratulations to Jenny.
Finally, it’s officially spring. How do I know? We went for a walk the other day, wrapped up like eskimos against the sleet and the cold north wind, only to encounter a man walking his dogs in naught but a fleece and light trousers, and he upbraided us for being overdressed. Springtime in Caithness…
Well, here we are at the end of March already. In a few days it will be Easter, not to mention April, which TS Eliot famously called the cruellest month: the words of a man who never spent a winter in Caithness. (After The Waste Land was published I like to imagine him clapping his palm to his forehead in dismay and crying, “Oh, yeah—January! What was I thinking?”) Of course, the line refers to the way April flatters to deceive, promising spring but frequently bringing snow and gales in place of sunshine and greenery (see also: Britain, May through August); but also the pain of rebirth and reawakening.
 Whaligoe
Which brings us to Easter. In the 8th century the Venerable Bede wrote that “Eosturmonath” (Easter month) took its name from the pagan goddess Eostre, “in whose honour feasts were celebrated”. But that’s the only mention of her in all of history; and there’s no detail of any kind—certainly no hares, no eggs, not even, disappointingly, chocolate. Of course, Christianity absorbed local pagan festivals and repurposed them all the time (as with Christmas and the Roman festival of Saturnalia), and I’m fine with that. I’ve mentioned before how I love the way language adds layers of meaning to place names over time; and it’s the same with religion. It’s what humans do: we take a thing and pass it on, and add a little something along the way, until gradually the original meaning becomes lost. It’s history in three dimensions: not just length and breadth, but depth.
 Oystercatchers at Crosskirk
So where once there may’ve been the pagan festival of Eostre, now there is the Christian festival of Easter, the death and resurrection of Jesus. Over the years we’ve added spiced buns with a flour-paste cross and chocolate eggs and cards and bunnies; but at the heart of it all, like the snowdrops and daffodils and budding hedgerows, the original idea is eternal, and eternally renewed.

And while we’re on the subject of hope, possibly false, I’m making progress down the first sleeve of the gansey. I’ve finished the pattern band at the top of the sleeve, and am on the plain knitting. Because of the size, and the number of stitches, I’m decreasing at a rate of 2 stitches every fourth row, instead of every fifth, as I usually do. In my rasher moments I imagine I might finish the sleeve this week, but common sense swiftly intervenes.
Easter celebrates resurrection and rebirth and the coming of spring. And whether that’s of Aphrodite, Ishtar, Kali or Jesus son of Joseph of Galilee, or of the early daffodils along the riverbank, we wish you a peaceful and joyous Easter, with just the right amount of chocolate and, if such is your desire, and who are we to judge, rabbits.
Happy Easter from Gordon and Margaret.
It’s been blowing a gale here for the best part of four days now—constant gusts upwards of 50 mph rattling the windows and shaking the doors. The trees have given up any thoughts of celebrating the arrival of spring by putting out leaves, and instead are focusing just on not being uprooted. Every now and then a gull sails past the window backwards, driven towards Ireland on an easterly breeze, a puzzled frown on its face as if it can’t quite work out why flapping its wings doesn’t seem to be having the usual effect.
I learned a valuable recycling lesson the other day, viz. that if you want to keep your private life, well, private in these sorts of conditions, it’s best to weigh down the lid of your bin with a heavy stone. It’s not a good look to be caught leaping across your neighbours’ lawn like a Victorian butterfly collector after a heavy night on the laudanum, desperately clutching at fluttering pages ripped from Thong Weekly, or the Pencil of the Month double-page centrefold from What Archivist. (Or—*cough*—so I would imagine—er—according to a friend.)
Confession time. Some not great news this week—I’ve been signed off work after experiencing a recurrence of the symptoms I had last year, when I was diagnosed with an anxiety depression. At least this time I can recognise the signs, and I’m still on the antidepressant medication, so hopefully this will just be a short episode. But I feel a bit like Frodo in the Lord of the Rings, who “was seriously wounded and it will never really heal”—except that I’m a lot taller; and whereas Frodo saved the world, when I was his age I saved loose change; other than that, pretty much identical, I think.
In the short term it will give me more time for knitting, which I’ve found is also a very positive form of therapy. I have finally completed the body, both shoulders and the collar (in knit 2/ purl 2 ribbing, casting off in pattern). I’ve picked up the stitches for the first sleeve and have just decreased the gusset out of existence: now for the rest of the sleeve. [Apologies for the quality of the gansey photo this week—Margaret’s on her travels again. Normal service should be resumed next week.]
When I was ill ask year I couldn’t do any writing, my head was too messed up. But when I began to feel better, I wrote some poems to try to articulate—to myself as much as anyone—what the illness actually felt like, albeit obliquely. Some of the poems are, quite frankly, terrible; some maybe not too bad. But with others their quality was neither here nor there—irrelevant because the poems were, in some sense, true. This one still feels to me like the truest of the lot.
The world is folded lengthways,
Turned at a right angle and folded again,
Then again
And many times again
Until it is too tight to bend—
It is all the god can do to hold it fast.
Then he lets go—
It springs apart, writhing as it opens,
Knotted like a broken flower,
All angle and crease,
Twisted so badly out of shape
It can never lie flat again.
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