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Week 3: 19 – 25 January

9how3aOh, that’s right, now I remember why I prefer to start my ganseys with a ribbed welt.

It’s Week 3 and I’m a couple of inches into the body, plain knitting in the round: and the garter stitch welt-flaps flop around like sheets hung out to dry on washing day in a strong gale. The thing is, ribbed welts naturally concertina inwards, which makes the stitches easy to manipulate round the needles; but a garter welt remains actual size, and that makes it harder to manage the stitches. So I’m forever stopping to coax them round with both hands to get them distributed evenly.

9how3bAnd then, just to make it more interesting, the plain knitting curls over the tops of the needles like a very frothy head on a freshly-drawn pint of beer… So all in all progress hasn’t been quite as smooth as I could have wished!

9how3dYou’ll see from the pictures that I’ve decided to add my initials to the front of the body, just above the welt close to one of the fake seam stitches. The letters are adapted from those in Rae Compton’sComplete Book of Traditional Guernsey and Jersey Knitting, page 60, which I find work pretty well. Adding your initials is, of course, a high-risk strategy – if you’ve miscalculated and the gansey turns out to be way too big or too small you can’t easily give it away to someone else whom it fits without having to explain yourself, which can be awkward. So this is something of a declaration of intent on my part. But I’ve always wanted one in this pattern, so I figure it’s worth it.

9how3cNow I’m knitting in the round, I’ve also been reminded of another problem of hand knitting directly from these 500g cones – the yarn naturally twists and twists until it’s twisted itself into knots, and keeping it constantly untangled can be a right nuisance. I’ve devised a cunning plan to overcome this, however, which involves placing the cone on the top of our window curtain rails after each session, and letting the knitting dangle freely below. After a very few minutes it’s untangled itself, and you’re ready to go again. (The only thing to remember is to ensure that the stitches on your needles are pushed far away from the points, so they don’t pull off and drop as your knitting spins and untwists. Oh yes – and make sure your cone weighs more than your knitting…)

Finally, here’s a question: has a gansey ever featured in a novel?

Week 2: 12 – 18 January

9how2aThe end of the first full week of knitting, at least it was when I wasn’t suffering from yet another cold (you can tell all the kids are all back at school, pooling their germs, can’t you?), and already we’ve seen the back of the welt. That’s one advantage to keeping it short: knitted back-and-forth in 2 separate pieces (or “flaps” as I like to think of them) of garter stitch, they measure just 2 inches top to bottom (34 rows plus the cast-on row), though they’ll probably get longer and stretch with use.

Now, I was going to describe in some detail how I joined the two separate welt flaps, and given the trouble I got into trying to explain how I did something as simple as garter stitch last week, I think there was reason to fear for our sanity, all of us. But then it occurred to me that the best description was simply, “You just knit them together as you go”, and so if that’s OK with you we can all get on with our lives.

9how2b(All right, but it’s every bit as simple as that: knit a row along one welt flap; lay the other alongside and knit it onto the same needle, so you’ve got the two welt flaps on one circular needle, joined in the middle, in a great U-shape. Then just start knitting in the round and – hey presto! – you complete the circle, like a snake devouring its own tail. In fact, snakes have been much in my mind this last week, as knitting the two welt flaps has been like trying to persuade a couple of large and uncooperative rattlesnakes to mate.)

The only remaining issue was adding the fake “seam” stitches, one at each side, to separate the front and back of the gansey. Once the welt flaps were joined I knitted a couple of rows of plain knitting (the pattern won’t start till the yoke) and then increased by one purl stitch per side, exactly on the joins of the two flaps. (Incidentally, the reason why I wait a couple of rows before adding them is just that I find it’s easier that way; the first row or two I’m concentrating on making sure the stitches at the join are good and tight to avoid holes.)

These seam stitches really serve no purpose until it’s time to add the underarm gussets, when they save you a lot of counting and give you something to create the gusset out of (the Adam’s Rib of the gansey world, I guess) – but they’re traditional, and somehow the whole thing wouldn’t look right without them.

If knitting a gansey is like a long transatlantic flight, then finishing the welt is like having taken off, climbed to cruising altitude above the cloud layer so there’s nothing to see out the windows, and realised that now the stewards have handed out the free peanuts there’s no more excitement until it’s time to land. So we strap ourselves in for a long, and hopefully uneventful flight…

Week 1: 5 – 11 January

9how1aNew Year, new pullover…

The intention is to include more technical detail as I go this time, which I hope to work up once it’s finished into a comprehensive “How to” technical section for the website. To kick off, here’s a picture of all the parts you’ll need to make a gansey: (1) Yarn; (2) DPNs; (3) Pattern; (4) Graph paper; (5) Calculator; (6) Tape measure; (7) Circular needles; (8) Scissors; (9) Tapestry needle. I use 2.25mm needles: the circular ones are 80cm long, and the double-pointed ones are 12 inches. (Disappointingly, you don’t seem to be able to get 2.25mm 12 inch dpns any more; so the ones I use are getting pretty beat up after all these years – the finish is scratched off the points, they’re all bent out of shape – but I’m too old to switch to shorter needles. Move with the times? I don’t think so!)

I understand that experienced knitters make swatches to find out their stitch gauge; in my case it’s taken me about 20 ganseys to achieve the same result, but either way, my gauge for a pattern with cables is about 9 stitches to the inch, or 8.5 for plain knitting. So I know that a 48-inch chest in the round without cables will take 408 stitches, or 204 per side.

I’ve decided to knit a plain pattern, that seen most commonly on Henry Freeman of Whitby’s gansey; a man who deserves to be remembered for being the sole survivor of the 1861 Whitby lifeboat disaster, and for marrying his wife’s sister after his wife died (the dog). It’s always been one of my favourites, bands of plain rows alternating with a knit 2/purl 2 textured checkerboard effect – very effective, especially in a dark colour like navy when the sun angles across it to pick out the contours. (You can see an example on the bottom panel of Gavin’s ‘Llandrindod’ gansey here.)

When I say this is going to be plain, I also mean that I’m not going to start the pattern till I start the underarm gussets. There are a few reasons for this. Firstly, and most obviously, that’s the way the pattern was in the old photographs. But it’s also being knit in navy blue, and I sometimes struggle to see the stitches clearly in dark wool, unless it’s under bright light; and finally, given that I’m about to start a new job in a new town, I might be a touch distracted now and then. So, best to keep it simple.

9how1bAnother change from the last gansey, is the welt. Unusually for me, I’ve decided to knit this in two separate pieces, in garter stitch, one for the front and one for the back, instead of my customary knit 2/purl 2 ribbed welt. Plain borders like this were quite common back in the day, and get joined at the top edge on the last row to make the first round of the body. (They have the added advantage that, being flat and knit back-and-forth, they don’t get twisted on the cast-on row!)

9how1cCasting on is crude but effective. The first “stitch” is a slip knot on the left-hand needle, pulled tightish, but left loose enough to pass a needle through. The second stitch is knit through the knot’s loop and placed beside it on the left-hand needle. Then, each subsequent stitch that is cast on is achieved by inserting the right-hand needle in between the most recent two stitches on the left needle; yarn is looped over the tip as it protrudes through the reverse side, the needle is withdrawn bringing the loop of yarn with it, and this new stitch is slipped onto the left-hand needle – and so on. I use differently-coloured wool to mark a certain number of stitches cast on – in this case, one marker every 50 stitches – to make the counting easier (see illustration).

After the cast-on row, I always make the next 2 rows purl rows (seen from the right side) – it makes the bottom edge chunkier, and looks suitably robust. With this current welt, after that, I’m just alternating knit and purl rows till the welt is the correct length ( an inch or two), with a couple of knit stitches each side as a border.

By the way, you’ll notice I haven’t given any thought to the pattern yet. That’s because it’s such a simple pattern it can easily be adapted to however many stitches there are, and sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof…

So it begins!

Week 24: 29 December – 4 January

w08week24dT H White, who wrote the classic reinterpretation of the Arthurian legend as a means of exploring man’s inhumanity to man in the light of the twentieth century’s terrible wars, The Once and Future King (on which the musical Camelot was based; and the first part of the book, The Sword in the Stone, was made into a Disney cartoon), also wrote a fascinating little book called The Goshawk. In it, he describes how he once laboriously tried to tame a goshawk using only the information contained in antiquated manuals on falconry – unaware that the world had moved on, and that there were easier and better ways of doing it now.

w08week24bI have a sneaking affection for the book, and for White’s approach, for part of me suspects he would have carried on regardless, even if someone had told him he didn’t have to do it that way. It was his choice, after all, and sometimes our choices are as revealing about us as anything we do.

So, in my own case, I’ve noticed a tendency to find a way that works for me, after which I’m not really interested in improving my technique – this is the case with computers, for example – once I find the keyboard shortcuts or commands that let me do what I want, there’s no point telling me a simpler way, or a better way: I don’t aspire to use a computer elegantly, or even efficiently.

w08week24cWhich brings us (finally, I hear you cry!) to knitting. I’ve been toying with the idea of turning this blog into a rather more detailed “how to” guide for the next gansey, which I’m going to start in the next few days, with more in the way of detail and illustration so you can see exactly how I go about it. The problem is, as faithful readers will have gathered by now, I tend to knit the way T H White trained goshawks, so it may have limited value to the modern world… Ah well. I was thinking of doing a simple pattern anyway, as a change of pace, so we’ll see.

w08week24aMeanwhile, the completed gansey has had its day in the washing machine and is now, thanks to Margaret and her Amazing Plastic-y Board Things, securely pinned out to dry. As I wasn’t sure what my stitch gauge would be after the cataract operations (which was one reason for knitting this gansey) we decided to block it to what seemed a natural size, not too taut, and by a happy coincidence it ended up the same size as my favourite roomy pullover (48 inches round the chest, so with 432 stitches it gives me a gauge of exactly 9 stitches to the inch for a pullover with cables). So now I have to decide what to do with it: keep it (the weather’s been cold enough recently), or give it away to a deserving cause.

Now I’m off to find a book on falconry…

Happy New Year!