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Flamborough: Week 14 – 31 July

It’s been a week bookended by explosions and drifting clouds of smoke. To start at the end, last night was the finish of gala week, which always culminates in a very pretty firework display down by the river. For once the weather was kind and sunset elided into a clear night of soft blue skies, against which the dark shapes of birds flitted to their nests, the perfect stillness of the night broken only by the pounding thump-thump-thump of the funfair. We watched the fireworks from our upstairs window, breathing in the drifting smoke from the huge bonfire, watching coloured flashes fill the sky and jumping at the bangs. The only problem is, it’s practically August, and here in the far north of Scotland summer tends to leave with the fair. Autumn is just around the corner: the wind has a subtle edge and even the warmest days have a feeling of impermanence.

Getting ready for the bonfire

The week opened with the demise of our microwave oven, which yielded up its spirit accompanied by a loud buzzing noise, like a bluebottle trapped in Metallica’s sound system, together with a cloud of acrid smoke. It occurred to me that this might be a special feature by the manufacturers, if they were Scandinavian, and that each oven departs this world by providing its own Viking funeral; I suppose I should be grateful that it didn’t ritually disembowel and incinerate me as well.

I’ve been amusing myself by imagining how various writers might have described it. So far I’ve got Dickens (“It was the best of ovens, it was the worst of ovens”), Tolstoy (“All working microwaves are alike; each broken microwave is broken in its own way”), Jane Austen (“It is a truth universally acknowledged, that an archivist in possession of a broken microwave, must be in want of a replacement”) and Tolkien (“In a hole in a recycling bin lived a broken microwave”). Then there’s Camus: “Our microwave oven died today. Or maybe yesterday, I don’t know.” Or possibly even Kafka—”As Gregor Samsa awoke one morning from uneasy dreams he found himself transformed in his bed into a broken microwave oven”.

So now it’s off to the home for abandoned microwaves to find a new one, always a depressing experience as you walk up and down rows of cages, with hopeful ovens wagging their little tails and barking optimistically, hoping you’ll take it home. I just hope the new one’s been housetrained. Meanwhile I can only make this appeal, in the immortal words of Shakespeare’s Mark Antony: “Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ovens…”

Flamborough: Week 13 – 24 July

“Behold, I tell you a mystery; we will not all sleep, but we will all be changed, in a moment, in the twinkling of an eye.” Not my words, but those of St Paul marvelling at how swiftly his new windows were installed in 54 AD. And so it was with us—maybe not in the twinkling of an eye (400 milliseconds, apparently), but still, fitting sixteen windows and a door in eight working days is definitely going it some.

It was done with sort of military precision I usually associate with the Royal Engineers building a bridge, or a colony of ants making off with my devilled eggs at a picnic. It was like being sacked by the ancient Assyrians, if the ancient Assyrians had thought to bring their own vacuum cleaners and tidied up after themselves. We knew some of the old wood was rotting, but the biggest surprise was when the workmen uncovered a large wasps’ nest inside one of the frames (though presumably our surprise was nothing compared with that of the wasps). “They were really loud, couldn’t you hear the buzzing?” the foreman asked, little realising I’d just put it down to tinnitus.

Grasses in the Wind

In gansey news I am well on the way to finishing the gansey, just the bottom of the second sleeve and the cuff to go. At such times I always think of the wise words of the Constable of France in Henry V, an experienced knitter: “A very little little let us do, and all is done.” It will be touch and go to finish this by the end of the month—it’s a meaningless deadline anyway—but the little left to do really is kinda little.

Meadowsweet

One consequence of getting double glazing is that the world seems quieter and further away. The noise of the funfair is reduced to dull pounding far off in the distance, like washing your hair in the bath while listening to Led Zeppelin. It’s already less draughty, too, as you’d hope; last year on windy days the bedroom was so well-ventilated blowflies got discouraged by the headwind. Unfortunately, the rest of the house now looks a bit shabby in comparison. There’s an old “The Broons” cartoon where the family buy a new cushion and end up having to redecorate the entire house, as each thing they renovate makes everything else look shabby, and which ends up with them having to replace the cushion again as the cycle never ends. Hmm. Now I come to look at them, those lounge cushions do seem a bit tired…

Flamborough: Week 12 – 17 July

We’re having all our windows replaced. It was long overdue—they were very old, some of the frames were rotten, and one was basically held together with a twisty tie and a rolled-up towel laid across the join to keep the wind out. Things had got so bad the Council proposed we change the name of our property to The House of Usher. The final straw was observing a Himalayan vulture the other day perched amid the seagulls on our roof with a hopeful look in its eye. Yes, it was definitely time.

Bedroom windows removed

It’s been a week of disruption all round, with our house currently resembling a set from Saving Private Ryan and the County Show taking place across the way. Overnight the neighbouring fields were transformed into the kind of tented city that Galadriel might have ordered if the elves had won the contract to run the Glastonbury festival. Tall, white pavilions encompassed the field over the road, and the hills were alive with the sounds of a funfair, motorcycle display teams and vintage tractors. Then it rained.

A vintage tractor on display

Well, I say rained, though that doesn’t really convey the apocalyptic immensity. If I open my thesaurus other, more appropriate, nouns suggest themselves: deluge, torrent, downpour, spate, and perhaps even cataclysm. Then in the early morning it stopped and words like mud, sun, heat, mud, steam and more mud become necessary. At times it felt like a recreation of the battle of Waterloo, which had uncannily similar weather—though I’ve never quite recovered from learning that the Allied and French armies, who got into position overnight in the pouring rain, didn’t have any toilet facilities (water-porta-loos?) and just relieved themselves where they stood or lay; and so, when the sources describe the battle taking place in a sea of mud, well, let’s just say it was brown and leave it at that.

Backing into the traces

In gansey news, I have finished the first sleeve and am now embarked on the second. I’ve just finished the underarm gusset and there’s just the rest of the sleeve and cuff to go. It’s not a long sleeve, and I’ll be decreasing at a rate of two stitches every fifth row. I still hope to finish it by the end of July, so fingers crossed.

And as I write this it’s Sunday morning and the tents are coming down surprisingly quickly—every time I look out the window—or the gaping hole where a window used to be—another one’s gone. Soon it will be as if they’d never appeared, and all we’ll be left with is the funfair; though, without wishing to appear in any way negative, honestly I think I’d rather take the vulture…

Flamborough: Week 11 – 10 July

 

I had a blood test the other day—well, I say a test, in fact I’ve had three in the last few weeks. The first time they didn’t get enough, the second they didn’t like the look of, so it was back to the surgery on the basis of third time’s the charm. Alas, the results are in and apparently my platelet count is low, and they’re clumping. I wasn’t aware until the other day that I had any platelets, let alone that they were misbehaving. But such is life. Now that I know, I’ve been avoiding tasks with the excuse, “I’m sorry, I’d like to help you shift that piano, but I’m afraid my platelets are clumping”.

Dunbeath Icehouse

I took a day off work last Friday, and we went down to Dunbeath harbour, about half an hour’s drive south of Wick. The morning had started overcast and showery, but gradually the sun burned the clouds away and by the time we were sitting on a bench looking out to sea it was warm sunshine clear to the horizon. The east coast of Caithness is dotted with harbours, all built around the 1800 for the herring fishing—Staxigoe, Sarclet, Lybster, Clyth, Latheronwheel, Berriedale—and Dunbeath is another. In its heyday 100 boats fished out of here, and you can tell how prosperous it was from the scale of the salmon bothy, gear store and icehouse just behind the harbour quays.

Harebells at Coronation Meadow, Dunnet

Meanwhile in gansey news, I’m almost to the end of the first sleeve. As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve let the pattern run all the way down to the cuff. This is partly an aesthetic choice—I do like a cable running from shoulder to wrist—but also partly practical, as the cables help draw in shorter sleeves and stop them getting too baggy. The cuff will be five inches long, so that it can be doubled back and offer the wearer a bit of flexibility.

Dunbeath Castle

And on a lazy, hazy, crazy day of summer Dunbeath is a beautiful place to sit and let your mind float as free as an untethered balloon. Across the water Dunbeath Castle perches incongruously on the cliffs like a bad photoshop from a Bavarian tourist guidebook. Its foundations are medieval, but it was extensively developed in later centuries when decorative turrets were a thing. (The castle is currently for sale—offers over £25 million—and I’d be tempted if it wasn’t for all the dusting.) There’s said to be a lovely walk upriver, inland up the strath. I plan to walk it one of these days. But maybe not today; at least, not while my platelets are clumping…

Flamborough: Week 10 – 3 July

I was intrigued to discover recently that, under the Salmon Act of 1986, it’s illegal to handle a salmon in suspicious circumstances. Of course, this means you can be arrested for handling potentially stolen goods and not, presumably, using a salmon as a tennis racket or playing it like a banjo. But it did send me looking for other unusual or outdated laws which are still on the statute books.

Did you know that it’s illegal to carry a plank along the pavement in London? I assume this is because the police have seen too many Laurel and Hardy movies. Other unlawful activities include driving cows along the highway without permission and firing a cannon within 300 yards of a dwelling house. And since 1313 members of Parliament have been forbidden to wear armour in the House, which goes some way to explaining why Prime Minister’s Questions has been so dull lately.

There are plenty of myths around outdated laws which turn out not to be true. So, no, you can’t shoot foreigners with a longbow in Chester or Hereford after curfew (nor in all likelihood could you ever); Oliver Cromwell, killjoy though he was, never actually banned eating mince pies at Christmas; and yes, you are permitted to hide a Catholic priest in your house should you so desire (it’s good to have a hobby that involves meeting other people).

Valeriana pyrenaica

Lifting our gaze from the quirks of the law, in parish notices Judit has sent us a picture of another gansey to admire. It’s John Northcott’s pattern from Rae Compton’s book (or “Straight Outta Compton” as controversial rappers NWA called their album celebrating ganseys), simple and elegant, and the light grey heather colour allows the pattern to stand out clearly. It is a gift for a very lucky young man. Many thanks as ever to Judit for sharing her ganseys with us!

Grasses by the river

And harking back to strange laws, of course the UK has never had a monopoly on these. In ancient times it was illegal to die on the island of Delos, which was a holy place to the gods (whaddaya gonna do, shoot me?). My favourite though is Peter the Great’s 1698 beard tax, which he introduced to make Russian men look more modern. The idea was that you either had to shave or buy a “beard token”, which you would show to police on demand: if you couldn’t produce a token, they were allowed to forcibly shave you (presumably saving canny Russians a fortune in barbers’ fees). Unsurprisingly the law proved unenforceable, and was finally repealed by another The Great, Catherine, in 1772. Anyway, so much for the law. Now I have a strange urge to eat a mince pie, handle a salmon and, after counting to 100, go see if I can find a Catholic priest hiding somewhere in my house…